Information on the #S01 Adjustable Saloon Chassis

Our adjustable magracing chassis enables enthusiasts of Magracing to convert standard slot cars for use on their slot less track. As with all our chassis they bind and connect to 3 channel Flysky hand controllers and use the easily available 10440 3.7v AAA rechargeable batteries. We supply front and rear body mounts which can be glued to the inside of the slot car body. This enables the body to be removed easily by unscrewing 2mm screws from the underside of the model. The chassis is set up from the factory, but magnet height and front wheel toe in can be adjusted to dial the car into your track. Scroll down the page for dimensions and details of how a body is fitted.

The dimensions for the chassis are given below. The wheel base is variable but runs best at around 75mm, however by slackening off three screws this can be changed to values between 72.5mm to 89.0mm. This enables you to use the chassis for short wheel base cars such as the Renault 5 or Porsche 911 up to Longer wheel base cars such as Nascar. Axle width is fixed, but suits most slot cars. Low Le Mans covered cars may fit, but F1 cars and open top will not. The height above the circuit board often limits fitting of these type of bodies.

Please be aware that unlike standard slot cars the front wheels need to steer without obstruction. Sometimes the wheel arches will need clearancing to allow this. It is usually the case that if this is required it can be done without changing the outside appearance of the bodyshell too much.

Magnetic Racing cars do run slower than conventional slot cars particularly with the heavier bodies, however a good turn of speed can be achieved with our cars and as magracing is more challenging than conventional slot cars, top speed isn't an issue. Of course if you want to maximise the power available, fit a lightweight vac formed body.

Turning circle of these cars is minimum 200mm radius, but extending the chassis does increase the turning circle a little. Most cars have wheelbases somewhere in the middle of the adjustment range and we have set up the steering Ackerman angle to work best in this area. This give good turn in and front wheel grip for most body shells you are likely to encounter. When adjusting the wheel base be sure to align the motor pod correctly. Below is an exaggerated view of a bad setup.

Symptoms of this are that the car steers itself on acceleration or lane changes unexpectedly. Slacken off the screws and readjust. After the body is fitted, you won't be needing to adjust the wheelbase, so it can be glued in place to give the chassis extra durability and remove one variable in the setup. A good way to do this is to add a few drops of super glue along the back edge whilst holding the chassis nose down. A few drops of super glue activator (Zap kicker) can be added to instantly dry the glue. This is good as it fixes the motor pod, but it is also possible to break this off later if you want to re use the chassis for another model.

Fitting a body

Slot car bodies are readily available from many sources. New kits are available from Ninco, Slot-It and many others. Avoid resin cast bodies as these are thick so wont allow good front wheel clearance. They are also heavy and would affect car performance. And if you try to fit a die cast body, you probably won't make it farther than the end of the pit lane! Another good source of bodies are swap meets or the second hand market. Slot car racers are looking for good tyres and working brushes and motors. Good bodies with poor brushes and wheels can be had cheaply from around 5.

To fit the body, first measure the wheelbase and set up the chassis, run the car around the track without a body and get it dialed in. We have noticed new chassis need to run in before they change lanes perfectly and grip well around the corners. This is probably because tyres need to bed in a little and the steering needs to get used to moving. This only takes a matter of about 5 - 10 minutes in most cases. Once happy fit the body. Remove all the interior and place the body over the chassis. You want the front wheels in the centre of the wheel arch with good clearance for the wheels to steer. You may need to glue in the lights and other parts such as bumpers as these are sometimes separate parts on slot car bodies. This all depends on which body you have chosen. If the body mounting we have provided won't work, it is possible to fabricate your own with plastic card and some M2 screws. Try to attach the mount to the body with minimal glue at first. You may want to have a gentle drive around the track checking clearances and drive ability before committing to epoxying the whole thing in place only to find the car doesn't run right! Adjustment is often necessary. We find that once the front mounting is in place, the rear follows without problems. Below is an image of a SCX Renault 5 getting the magracing treatment. Note the lights and indicators have been glued in and the front arches have received a little clearance at the front. Window glass has also been attached and the interior removed. Adding the glass makes the body more rigid and reduces the chance of you building a twisted car or chassis.

One thing to avoid is forcing the body onto the chassis. File the mountings if needed and get it so it fits with ease over the rear lugs and around the front locations. Note that the rear mounting can be fitted either way around and this gives you options. Packing with plastic card  is often necessary for height adjustment. When you finally epoxy them in place, make sure you don't get epoxy into the threads or on the mounting faces.

Forcing the body on and using the screws to tighten the body down will result in a car that runs perfectly with the body off, but will handle poorly with the body on. This is because the chassis will be twisted and you may even find that one front wheel lifts when steering. Take your time as this will reward you later with trouble free motoring!

Fitting an Interior

Due to the extra electronics and battery that the chassis has to carry it is not possible to have a fully detailed interior with a complete driver and co pilot. However the chassis has two longitudinal slots along each side of the chassis centre which can be used to add on a removable interior as shown below. Using this method and by modifying slot car figures, roll cage, spare wheels etc. it is possible to produce an interior that is a perfectly acceptable replica of the real car. The interior can be left loose as the body retains it once it is fitted over the top

Below is an image of a Fly BMW which was obtained from a swap meet for 8. OK The body is a bit bashed and the wing mirrors are missing, but it makes an ideal conversion and it can be raced at full blast without worry of damaging the paint! The interior I made using cardboard stuck together with super glue and painted with acrylic. Zap kicker is handy here with super glue. The side pieces are around 18mm tall and this gives a little clearance over the circuit board. Apply glue generously and then a drop of zap kicker dries the glue instantly and also produces support either side. The cut down the dash board was also glued into the body. I had a spare resin driver but this could have been made from the one supplied with the slot car body. A small raised portion at the rear provides a bulge to cover the motor top. I cut all the other detail pieces from the original body and glued them to the top of the card. I then tidied up the edges here and there with acrylic paint.

Fitting an interior doesn't give you a direct view of the LED when you are binding the car, but there is usually sufficient flashing from the underside of the car or around the card when binding so this isn't an issue. Here is the finished model. Perhaps I could have gone a little lower at the front, but no wheel clearancing of the body was needed for the front wheels. This car has an 86mm wheelbase so is one of the longer ones, but it runs really well. The car struggles around very tight corners, but can be made to take them easily if you steer in the correct direction (A handy tip in any case for fast laps!) . The interior is perfectly presentable and the dash board top from the original car disguises the flat card interior so it is hardly noticed.

Below is an image of the SCX Renault 5 completed using one of our S1 chassis. Your chassis will have 5 spoke wheels, but we are doing trials here with printing some other designs. Once again we have used plastic card, the original drivers, roll cage and spare tyre to produce a realistic interior. Yes we could have painted the wheels, but you get the idea! Short wheelbase cars seem to run well on tight circuits.

Below is another model completed with our S1 chassis. This time its a Porsche 911 GT2. The body was bought at a swap meet for 4 without a chassis. We believe it is from the Pro Slot company. Once again we have added our own wheels, but the chassis is S1. Note there is no interior fitted to this car, but this could be easily fabricated as we have shown.

Thank you for taking the time to discover our S1 chassis. Please email us if you need any further details.