CARS - Operating Instructions for cars.
cars and other items we sell are not child's toys, but are designed for
the experienced adult enthusiast and require time and adjustment to get
working perfectly. They contain small parts such as nuts and bolts and
also several powerful magnets. Magnets can be particularly dangerous to
small children if swallowed, so ensure they are stored and used well
away from your infants.
are currently built in small batches and released for sale directly on
eBay. Below is a list of the cars that we make. If you want one check
the ebay shop regularly as soon as a new batch is produced they will be
added to the stock for sale. Unlike other slot car systems depending on
how you have designed your track they can be tricky to get running
perfectly. Our cars are setup and tested on our track and work very
well, however you may need to tweak the magnet height and occasionally
the steering toe in to get them working perfectly.
Additional Items Required
In addition to the car, you will also need to buy a transmitter, battery and charger. We do not sell these directly, but they are easily obtained worldwide from ebay, aliexpress etc.
The cars use the Flysky 2.4GHz AFHDS GFSK protocol. This sounds technical, but in reality any of the Flysky ground transmitters seem to work well. we recommend the Flysky FS-GT2B as a good starting point as it works well is cheap and is easy to bind to the cars. Also look out for transmitters with rechargeable batteries as this saves a lot of hassle and they can be recharged via a USB plug.
Another advanced transmitter
to buy is the Flysky FS-GT3C.
This enables you to individually adjust to control sensitivity to
several cars in your fleet. it does not however mean you can switch
between cars at the flick of a switch as all 10 models bind using the
same ID. It is for this reason we recommend the cheaper FS-GT2B as it
is a trivial matter to rebind to any new car you place on the track.
Note there is a company called "Frysky", this is a different company with a different protocol. Do not buy those as they won't work with our cars.
How the system works.
transmitter has a unique ID which is factory set. When the car is first
powered on (by inserting the battery) it will look for the transmitter
it was previously bound to. It can do this because the car has stored
the unique ID of the last transmitter in memory. If after about 5
seconds if it cannot find the last transmitter it goes into bind mode
and seeks any available transmitter to bind to. If it finds one it
binds to it and stores its unique ID for next time. OK thats how it
works, what does this all mean in practice?
How to bind your car to a transmitter.
the body of your car. Insert the battery. An LED light on the
electronics board comes on briefly and then goes off. After about 5
seconds the LED starts to flash rapidly. It is now in bind mode. Hold
down the bind button on your transmitter and switch it on. The car
should bind and the LED on the car will go off (The car has found and
stored the transmitter ID). Release the transmitter bind button and
switch off the transmitter. Turn the transmitter back on and the led on
the car should come on. The car is now ready for use. From now on all
you need to do is turn on the transmitter first and then power up the
car. The car should work immediately. Note that if the car has trouble
binding, or reacts abnormally this is usually a sign that the batteries
in the car or transmitter need charging. Driving the car is pretty
simple, use the throttle lever to accelerate and decelerate and push it
back to reverse the car. Steering is via the wheel as with any RC car.
In addition there is a "Cruise control" function on the channel 3
switch (Usually found on the side of the handle) . Drive the car at a
steady speed then press this button. The car will now continue on at
that constant speed and the throttle lever is disabled. You can steer
the car as normal if needed. To return the car to manual mode just
press the channel 3 button again. By using this function it is
possible to have a series of Ghost cars running around your track with
which to race!
car uses one rechargeable Li-ion 3.7v battery type 10440. We do not sell
these as international shipping of batteries can be troublesome, but
they are readily available online. Just Google "10440 battery" and you
will find a supplier near you. There are two types "Protected" and
"Unprotected". Avoid the "Protected" type as these are longer and don't
fit in the cars. In addition take the power ratings with a "Pinch of
salt". A 600mAh battery from the far east may seem a bargain but often
isn't that at all and lasts the same time as a 350mAh battery from
another supplier! We have found that "Soshine" brand are very good and
seem to last well. They are rated at 350mAh but we have run our cars
for well over an hour on a single charge. There are many other brands
that work just as well.
Preparing your battery for use
will notice in the cars that the negative terminal is on the side of
the battery and the battery is held in via magnets. We have done this
so that it is not possible to insert the battery the wrong way around.
If you do modify the car, ensure an incorrectly orientated battery is
not possible otherwise this will fry the electronics rapidly! In order
to make a connection, remove the lower 10mm of the battery sleeve as
shown below. Do this by gently running a small modeling knife around
the battery. The outer decorated sleeve should come away without a
problem. The batteries are now ready for use.
we have said the batteries are held into the car via two magnets. It is
fairly easy to flick the battery out using a thin piece of plastic,
coffee stirrer or similar from the negative end, but if you are
struggling you can make a simple battery removal tool . Two magnets can
be glued to a suitable piece of wood, mdf board etc., with epoxy
adhesive. Glue one magnet first and let dry, then glue the other with a
plate across the magnets. this way it will stop the two magnets moving
together whilst drying.
Once done you can simply attach this to the underside of the battery in
the car and pull it free. with practice it is a matter of seconds to
change the battery.
again a simple search for "10440 charger" on the net will take you to
lots of options for a charger. These can often be bought as a combined
package with the batteries. For a little more money than a basic 2 or 4
station charger, there is also the option to buy a "Smart charger" such
as the Aosibo A8. This will charge and maintain up to 8 batteries and
is ideal if you run a lot of cars at once. In any case try to get one
with a sliding battery retainer if possible, we have found that the
with the non adjustable press in chargers the batteries can tend spring
up and disconnect whilst charging. As with
all Li-ion batteries never leave them unattended whilst charging or
worse charge them overnight whilst you are asleep. Old and damaged
batteries can ignite.
is good practice not to leave a Li-ion battery on after charging and
also do not discharge the battery fully. By doing so the battery will
stay in top condition much longer.
Adjusting the magnet height
get the Magnetic Racing car running well, the correct magnet height
relative to the road surface is vital. Too high and the car will not
steer, too low and the magnet will drag and performance will not be
optimum or at worst the car will not drive forward at all! Remove the
body and initially unscrew the screw shown until the magnet drags
a little on the track. This can be done by pushing the car gently along
the wire in the track and listening for a scraping sound. the car
should slide along the track with a gentle push and not be locked
firmly to the track. Now power the car up and take it for a gentle lap
of the track. You may hear scraping at certain points of the track.
Stop the car each lap and tighten the screw (clockwise) about 1/8 turn
only and try again. You are aiming to have the car go around the track
without any scraping. Keep adjusting up until the magnet upwards 1/8
turn at a time until the car runs smoothly around the track. If you
adjust too high, you will find that the car does not stay on line
around the corners and comes adrift. You are trying to find a happy
medium between a good guide force without any scraping of the track. If
you find this impossible, you should suspect your track construction.
have you buried the wire too deep? did you use the correct wire type?
is the turn radius too small? is the track too bumpy?
Adjusting the tracking
should not need to adjust the tracking on a new model as it is set at
the factory to run correctly, however if you have a bad crash or the
steering wears it is worth checking now and again. We use a simple jig,
however in practice this can be done by eye. The first thing you should
do is turn on the transmitter and car and set the steering to neutral.
Also check that the steering trim is set to neutral (On the FS-GT2B see
"E" in the diagram) set this to the 6 O'Clock position.
check each side of the car. A good starting point is 1.5 degrees toe in
on each side. This is about 0.44mm between the front and the back of
the rim. This is only a guide, the important thing is that there is a
little toe in and both sides are equal. To increase the toe in turn the
adjustment screw a little clockwise, to reduce the toe in turn it
anticlockwise. The thread is very stiff, so take care to support the
arm and only adjust a little (1/8 to 1/4 of a turn). The best way to
hold the model is to grip the arm between thumb and forefinger pressing
it down onto the chassis close to the adjustment screw. Use a small
screwdriver for adjustment. Move the steering back and forth to
recenter and recheck the alignment until you are happy.
Adjusting front wheel play
you need to take play out of the front wheels, this can be done by
gently tightening the centre hexagon bolt using an Allen Key (1.5mm
A/F) . Gently tighten the Allen key until the wheel turn becomes stiff
then back off the bolt 1/2 turn. We add a little Vaseline to between
the back plate and rear of the wheel, you can refresh this if needed by
removing the nut and wheel. Try to hold in the rear Nyloc nut when
doing this as it can be difficult to seat later.
of Martin Price & Chris Leck (Magnetic Racing)
They should not be Reverse Engineered, Copied, Transfered or Sold.