CARS - Operating Instructions for cars.

Safety Notice

The cars and other items we sell are not child's toys, but are designed for the experienced adult enthusiast and require time and adjustment to get working perfectly. They contain small parts such as nuts and bolts and also several powerful magnets. Magnets can be particularly dangerous to small children if swallowed, so ensure they are stored and used well away from your infants.

Cars are currently built in small batches and released for sale directly on eBay. Below is a list of the cars that we make. If you want one check the ebay shop regularly as soon as a new batch is produced they will be added to the stock for sale. Unlike other slot car systems depending on how you have designed your track they can be tricky to get running perfectly. Our cars are setup and tested on our track and work very well, however you may need to tweak the magnet height and occasionally the steering toe in to get them working perfectly.

Magnetic Racing on eBay

Porsche 908/3 No3 Gulf Racing

S1 Adjustable Saloon Chassis

Chassis77mm x 60mm Fixed

Porsche 908/3 Unpainted Body Kit

Ferrari 312PB Unpainted Body Kit


Additional Items Required

In addition to the car, you will also need to buy a transmitter, battery and charger. We do not sell these directly, but they are easily obtained worldwide from ebay, aliexpress etc.


The cars use the Flysky 2.4GHz AFHDS GFSK protocol. This sounds technical, but in reality any of the Flysky ground transmitters seem to work well. we recommend the Flysky FS-GT2B as a good starting point as it works well is cheap and is easy to bind to the cars. Also look out for transmitters with rechargeable batteries as this saves a lot of hassle and they can be recharged via a USB plug.

Another advanced transmitter to buy is the Flysky FS-GT3C. This enables you to individually adjust to control sensitivity to several cars in your fleet. it does not however mean you can switch between cars at the flick of a switch as all 10 models bind using the same ID. It is for this reason we recommend the cheaper FS-GT2B as it is a trivial matter to rebind to any new car you place on the track.

Note there is a company called "Frysky", this is a different company with a different protocol. Do not buy those as they won't work with our cars.

How the system works.

Each transmitter has a unique ID which is factory set. When the car is first powered on (by inserting the battery) it will look for the transmitter it was previously bound to. It can do this because the car has stored the unique ID of the last transmitter in memory. If after about 5 seconds if it cannot find the last transmitter it goes into bind mode and seeks any available transmitter to bind to. If it finds one it binds to it and stores its unique ID for next time. OK thats how it works, what does this all mean in practice?

How to bind your car to a transmitter.

Remove the body of your car. Insert the battery. An LED light on the electronics board comes on briefly and then goes off. After about 5 seconds the LED starts to flash rapidly. It is now in bind mode. Hold down the bind button on your transmitter and switch it on. The car should bind and the LED on the car will go off (The car has found and stored the transmitter ID). Release the transmitter bind button and switch off the transmitter. Turn the transmitter back on and the led on the car should come on. The car is now ready for use. From now on all you need to do is turn on the transmitter first and then power up the car. The car should work immediately. Note that if the car has trouble binding, or reacts abnormally this is usually a sign that the batteries in the car or transmitter need charging. Driving the car is pretty simple, use the throttle lever to accelerate and decelerate and push it back to reverse the car. Steering is via the wheel as with any RC car. In addition there is a "Cruise control" function on the channel 3 switch (Usually found on the side of the handle) . Drive the car at a steady speed then press this button. The car will now continue on at that constant speed and the throttle lever is disabled. You can steer the car as normal if needed. To return the car to manual mode just press the channel 3 button again. By using this function it is possible to have a series of Ghost cars running around your track with which to race!


The car uses one rechargeable Li-ion 3.7v battery type 10440. We do not sell these as international shipping of batteries can be troublesome, but they are readily available online. Just Google "10440 battery" and you will find a supplier near you. There are two types "Protected" and "Unprotected". Avoid the "Protected" type as these are longer and don't fit in the cars. In addition take the power ratings with a "Pinch of salt". A 600mAh battery from the far east may seem a bargain but often isn't that at all and lasts the same time as a 350mAh battery from another supplier! We have found that "Soshine" brand are very good and seem to last well. They are rated at 350mAh but we have run our cars for well over an hour on a single charge. There are many other brands that work just as well.

Preparing your battery for use

You will notice in the cars that the negative terminal is on the side of the battery and the battery is held in via magnets. We have done this so that it is not possible to insert the battery the wrong way around. If you do modify the car, ensure an incorrectly orientated battery is not possible otherwise this will fry the electronics rapidly! In order to make a connection, remove the lower 10mm of the battery sleeve as shown below. Do this by gently running a small modeling knife around the battery. The outer decorated sleeve should come away without a problem. The batteries are now ready for use.

As we have said the batteries are held into the car via two magnets. It is fairly easy to flick the battery out using a thin piece of plastic, coffee  stirrer or similar from the negative end, but if you are struggling you can make a simple battery removal tool . Two magnets can be glued to a suitable piece of wood, mdf board etc., with epoxy adhesive. Glue one magnet first and let dry, then glue the other with a steel plate across the magnets. this way it will stop the two magnets moving together whilst drying. Once done you can simply attach this to the underside of the battery in the car and pull it free. with practice it is a matter of seconds to change the battery.


Once again a simple search for "10440 charger" on the net will take you to lots of options for a charger. These can often be bought as a combined package with the batteries. For a little more money than a basic 2 or 4 station charger, there is also the option to buy a "Smart charger" such as the Aosibo A8. This will charge and maintain up to 8 batteries and is ideal if you run a lot of cars at once. In any case try to get one with a sliding battery retainer if possible, we have found that the with the non adjustable press in chargers the batteries can tend spring up and disconnect whilst charging. As with all Li-ion batteries never leave them unattended whilst charging or worse charge them overnight whilst you are asleep. Old and damaged batteries can ignite.

It is good practice not to leave a Li-ion battery on after charging and also do not discharge the battery fully. By doing so the battery will stay in top condition much longer.

Adjusting the magnet height

To get the Magnetic Racing car running well, the correct magnet height relative to the road surface is vital. Too high and the car will not steer, too low and the magnet will drag and performance will not be optimum or at worst the car will not drive forward at all! Remove the body and initially unscrew the screw shown until the  magnet drags a little on the track. This can be done by pushing the car gently along the wire in the track and listening for a scraping sound. the car should slide along the track with a gentle push and not be locked firmly to the track. Now power the car up and take it for a gentle lap of the track. You may hear scraping at certain points of the track. Stop the car each lap and tighten the screw (clockwise) about 1/8 turn only and try again. You are aiming to have the car go around the track without any scraping. Keep adjusting up until the magnet upwards 1/8 turn at a time until the car runs smoothly around the track. If you adjust too high, you will find that the car does not stay on line around the corners and comes adrift. You are trying to find a happy medium between a good guide force without any scraping of the track. If you find this impossible, you should suspect your track construction. have you buried the wire too deep? did you use the correct wire type? is the turn radius too small? is the track too bumpy?

Adjusting the tracking

You should not need to adjust the tracking on a new model as it is set at the factory to run correctly, however if you have a bad crash or the steering wears it is worth checking now and again. We use a simple jig, however in practice this can be done by eye. The first thing you should do is turn on the transmitter and car and set the steering to neutral. Also check that the steering trim is set to neutral (On the FS-GT2B see "E" in the diagram) set this to the 6 O'Clock position.

Now check each side of the car. A good starting point is 1.5 degrees toe in on each side. This is about 0.44mm between the front and the back of the rim. This is only a guide, the important thing is that there is a little toe in and both sides are equal. To increase the toe in turn the adjustment screw a little clockwise, to reduce the toe in turn it anticlockwise. The thread is very stiff, so take care to support the arm and only adjust a little (1/8 to 1/4 of a turn). The best way to hold the model is to grip the arm between thumb and forefinger pressing it down onto the chassis close to the adjustment screw. Use a small screwdriver for adjustment. Move the steering back and forth to recenter and recheck the alignment until you are happy.

Adjusting front wheel play

Should you need to take play out of the front wheels, this can be done by gently tightening the centre hexagon bolt using an Allen Key (1.5mm A/F) . Gently tighten the Allen key until the wheel turn becomes stiff then back off the bolt 1/2 turn. We add a little Vaseline to between the back plate and rear of the wheel, you can refresh this if needed by removing the nut and wheel. Try to hold in the rear Nyloc nut when doing this as it can be difficult to seat later.

Please Note all designs are Intellectual Property subject to Copyright 2016 - 2018
 of Martin Price & Chris Leck (Magnetic Racing)

They should not be Reverse Engineered, Copied, Transfered or Sold.