Information and how to assemble the #013 Race Headquarters

The #013 is an homage to the Scalextric K703 building which is no longer available and very difficult to find. The structure is double skinned for strength and has three tiers. At the back of the building there are two finely detailed stairs to access the floors.

The building is 284mm Wide x 228mm Deep x 255mm High

How to assemble the Race Headquarters

We will begin by building the inner walls and then add then work our way upwards. We leave the stairs and hand rails until last as these are the most delicate parts. We recommend super glue as this is quick and makes a strong model.

To begin locate the lower floor. This has "MAGNETIC RACING" etched on it. Place this on the workbench with the text facing upwards. Now locate the two inner walls. These are identical to each other. Apply some small drops of super glue on the lower edge and push them into the slots. Use another square part of the kit to get them perfectly vertical. Hold each in place until the glue holds them.

Next we add on the front inner wall. This can be recognized as it has a large double width door and two windows with small windows. It is important especially with large pieces in the to do a trial fit without glue. The parts are generally very accurate, but depending on how they are assembled may need a little gentle sanding to make them easy to assemble. Once you are happy, apply small drops of super glue on the mating faces and press the part home. Make sure it is fully pressed down into the lower piece and against the wall edges.

Next we add on the rear inner wall. This has a single window and a single width door. Note the window is on the left in the image below. We have offset the slots, so it should be impossible to assemble this incorrectly. Once again do a dry assembly first, remove the wall, apply glue and reassemble. As before press the part down and up against the centre walls until it dries.

Add on the two end walls. Make sure the windows are positioned as shown. They should only fit one way. Apply glue and press the corners together until the glue dries.

We now glue on the next floor to the underside. Before gluing, double check that all the holes are free of laser cut debris. Pay particular attention to the small square holes around the edge. If you don't do this they may be difficult to remove once you have glued on the part. There are etched lines on this part which align perfectly to the edges of the other floor. When applying glue do this around the edges inside the etched lines and also in the centre. do not go near the slots as we do not want glue to seep into them. Press the model together on a flat surface. If you want to work a little slower you can switch to wood glue here and press the model together with a weight on the top of the until the glue goes off. This can give you extra time to slide the faces around a little to get them aligned more accurately.Pay particular attention to the stair landing which sticks off the rear edge. The better you get this, the easier the stairs will be to attach later.

Turn the model over and orientate it a shown in the image below. Glue on the front wall. Once again use another square edged part of the kit to ensure it is glued upright.

Next glue on an end wall. Note the position of the door. Apply glue and push the part down into the floor. Hold the corner together as the glue dries

Add the second end wall in a similar manner. *IMPORTANT* This part has a narrower width lug at one end. Make sure that this is placed to the left end as shown in the image below.

Follow this with the rear wall as shown.

Now glue in in two doors. All the single doors in the kit are the same so choose any two. There is etching on the doors to help as a guide to get them correctly placed in the door aperture. Apply glue sparingly as you do not want it to squeeze out so it shows on the door face. Double check that the porthole window is at the top of the door!

We now begin to add the outer walls. Start with the ends. Apply glue and press it home. Note that the etched lines are on the outside of the model and the edges are flush with the inner walls at each end.

In a  similar manner add on the other end wall. Once again check the ends are flush and the etched detail is on the outside.

Now add the back outer wall. This forms a neat corner with the end walls.

Now on goes the front outer wall. Pay attention here to get the double door gaps nicely even. the kit is very accurate so this should be straightforward.  The end also align to form a neat corner. If you have the model a little poorly built, give priority to the centre door gaps as the ends will be covered later with corner edging.

We next turn our attention to the upper floor. Begin with the end walls. These have no etched detail on them. Align the corners and check the door gaps are neatly aligned.

Add the other end wall in a similar manner.

Now on goes the front wall.

Follow this with the rear wall.

Turn the model around and make sure it is on a flat surface. Add the front plinth. This is the one without holes. Check it fits easily before applying glue and then press home. Make sure it lies flat on the build surface so is square to the wall. We add the plinth before adding the doors as this gives us a nice location for the bottom edge of the door. It is a good idea here to place a sheet of paper on the build surface as it is possible to glue the whole model down by accident. With paper it is much easier to remove it without damaging your bench. allow this to dry thoroughly before proceeding.

Add on the double door with the etched detail outermost. We insert the door from below the model and locate it using the etched lines. By attaching the plinth first we are able to push the door down and against it to position it correctly. Apply glue sparingly as we do not want it to seep onto the front of the doors. make sure you add glue on the lower edge of the door as this reinforces the plinth.

Now add on the two door pillars. There are some similar looking parts in the kit, but the parts you want are 7mm wide x 64.5mm tall. Glue these either side of the door. There are no etched marks to help you, but align the inner edges with the door aperture.Apply a little glue on the lower edge and ensure it pushes down on the plinth. By doing this you reinforce the plinth so it is less likely to snap off in use.

Next add on the top door canopy. Once more apply glue on the top of the door pillars and along the rear edge. Ensure it is positioned horizontally as it dries.

Turn the model around and add on the rear plinth. Note the position of the holes. We have sized the lugs so it should only fit on one way. Once again place some thin paper under the model when you glue it on. This way you can rip off the paper easily and scrape off any residue after drying instead of gluing it to your bench! It is important here to get everything square so take your time here. By doing this it makes it much easier to assemble the rear stairs at a later stage. Make sure this is thoroughly dry before proceeding as it is easy to twist the part off the model by accident.

Attach a single door using the plinth and the etched lines to the inside of the wall. A little glue on the lower edge of the door further reinforces the plinth.

We now glue on the second floor roof. Note this is the last time we have access to the inside of the second floor, so if you are detailing the inside or adding window glass (not supplied) do it now. It is in theory possible to have this roof removable, but this makes the model rather fragile. This can be done by not applying glue here and also not gluing the stair sides to the lower roof (see later). Note this part has no etched detail and the stair landing is to the rear of the model as shown below. Once more it should be impossible to fit this the wrong way around. As this is a large part do a trial fit first without glue to see if it pushes home easily.

Next comes the upper roof. Check the part for debris, particularly in the small square holes. Push out any scrap wood with a craft knife.As the part has etched lines on the underside, assembly is best accomplished by inverting the model. Place the separate part on the bench and lower the main model onto it. Try this dry first so you know how it fits and then apply glue inside the etched lines around the edge and in the centre. Avoid applying glue near any of the slots. Pay particular attention to the landing which protrudes from the rear of the building. Get this aligned perfectly as this helps later when we assemble the stairs.

Turn the model the correct way up and add on the upper inner wall. This is the one with the door and it has lugs on the lower edge. Glue it in place and ensure it is upright. use another square part in the kit as a right angle. Let this fully dry before continuing.

We now add on the front and rear inner wall. Both parts are identical.

Add on the end wall. in the centre piece. There are two identical pieces in the kit. Use either. Orientate the part with the etching on top and so it aligns with the etched detail. Glue it in place checking that all the edges match.

We now add on the front and rear outer walls. These are plain rectangular pieces with no etching. They are both the same. Glue them on with the ends flush as shown. The top edge forms a lip to take the lower window edges.

Add on the end outer wall . this is again a rectangular un etched part.

Finish the outer walls by adding on the other end. ensure the edges are flush and that there is an even stepped recess either side of the door.

Add on the final door to the inside wall face. once again use the etched lines to help position it correctly.

The roof support comes next. Apply glue and push both ends fully into the slots provided.

There is an end roof support and this goes on next. Position it centrally on the cross beam and make sure the underside is flush as shown. Hold the parts together until the glue dries.

Add on the wall gusset to by the side of the door. push it fully home into the lower slot and check the rear edge forms a neat corner inside.

Now add on the sloping window. There are two identical panels in the kit so use either. These glue up against the angled roof support. The lower edge sits neatly in the lower lip. Position the ends flush as shown.

In a similar manner add on the rear window. This fits into the corner recess as shown below.

Add on the end window in a similar manner. We are trying to form an equal square surface in each corner. If we get this equal it makes fitting the corner windows much easier.

There is another small window to add next to the door. This is supported by the gusset we added earlier. Again we are looking to form that square surface in the corner.

We glue in the corner windows. There are 3 identical panels in the kit. The lower point sits on the square surface we previously formed in the corners. The top edges are flush with the other windows. These parts are fragile, even when glued. It is a good idea to run a small bead of stronger glue on the inside corners of these parts.

Next add on the inner roof panel. We can leave this unglued if you want occasional access to the inside of the model. Do a trial fit first without glue  and if necessary sand the lugs or slots a little to get it to fit nicely. Once happy apply glue and attach the part.

We have the upper roof to attach now and once again this has etched lines underneath to help you. It sometimes helps to invert the model to make this easier.

We now add the window sills to the model. there are nine of these of various lengths. They are the narrow sections left in the kit which are all 4mm wide. They are glued into the recesses below each window.

There are some wider (7mm) pieces that glue onto each lower corner. There are 8 in the kit. Begin with the 4 end pieces. glues these on using the etched lines as a guide. The outer edges are flush with the corner of the front and rear wall.

Follow this with the remaining 4 pieces for the front and rear wall. These overlap the previous parts to form a neat corner. Once more there are etched lines to help you align the pieces.

We now begin construction of the rear stairs. Firstly we need to attach the stair support to the inside of the hand rail.

There are 4 of these to complete. Two have an upper hand rail attached as shown. Note the position of the chamfered corner and where it is positioned relative to the upper hand rail. They are mirrored pairs as shown in the last of the three images below.

Now add on the inner stair rails. We mentioned earlier that it is possible to have access to the second floor interior and you can do this by not applying glue to the bottom ends of the upper stair rails. We do not recommend this as it makes the upper stairs rather weak, but the choice is yours.

The stair hand rails clip into a hole at the lower end and then press up against the notch at the top. Notice that the stair support faces outwards on both rails. Do a dry assembly first and check everything goes together. Ensure that the rail is glued vertical. also push it back against the sides of the floor so it sits into the corner.

Add on the two outer rails. This time the stair support faces inwards. Due to the stack up of part tolerances, you may need to sand this part a little on the vertical edge as shown The part should sit onto the floor easily. Notice also in the second image that the leg does not go into the hole on the floor, but sits by the side. This is true for both the lower and upper part. Check and recheck until happy then glue in once more making sure it is vertical. allow these pieces to fully dry before proceeding.

Now we need to add in the stair treads. there are 32. 16 on the lower and 16 on the upper stairs. Cut these from the sprue along the marked lines. We have provided a few extra to help you. These can be tricky to fit, but a tip is to start at the top and work down. test each one first as sometimes the ends need sanding so they are an easy fit. apply glue and press each one in. Sometimes tweezers or some thin nose pliers can help here.

We are approaching the end of the build. Add in the small hand rail spacer as shown below.

All of the hand rails look similar, but are all unique. First glue on the rear hand rail. This has 7 panels. Once again note that the end leg does not go into a hole, but sits next to it as shown. apply glue sparingly on the legs, but don't forget to apply glue on the end that meets the spacer we added previously. By doing this in the corners the rails are much stronger.

Add the end rail. This has 5 panels

Turn the model around and add on the front rail in a similar manner.

And then the end rail. Apply glue on both vertical ends and pinch the corners together until the glue dries.

We now turn our attention to the upper floor. Add in another spacer as shown

A small single panel hand rail goes in next.

Add on the 4 panel end rail.

Followed by the 6 panel front rail.

 Add the other end rail. build.

The last part is the small 2 panel rail as shown.

Congratulations you have completed the Race Control Tower. We hoped you enjoyed the build. We would love to see photos of you completed builds, particularly if you have painted them or modified them in any way.