Small Spectators Stand Pair #012

Our small spectator stands come as a pair. They are only three tier and therefore have a low height. This makes them ideally suited for placement in the centre of a slot car track as they tend to obscure the race track much less. The models are robust and although look intricate are in fact very straightforward to build. This is in part due to the interlocking nature of the design. The support structure ate the rear of the stans are also accurately modeled and visible from the front through the slatted seats. Because they look so realistic even unpainted they are an ideal first build.

The 1/32 model is 184mm Wide x 110mm Deep x 108mm High

How to assemble the Small Spectators Stands

The small spectators stands are very easy to assemble. They are best built on a flat surface to ensure that they are construcetd squarely without any twist. Read through the instructions fully before you start. We advise that at each stage you dry assemble the part first and see which areas contact the main assembly. With this kit it is easy to apply glue to the wrong edge. This is not too much of an issue, but it does save cleaning up afterwards. If you are unsure of where any part goes, take a look at the images above (Click for a larger view). It is useally possible to see where a part goes. Pay particular attention to the vertical stair uprights in the kit. Two of them have an etched line on one side. These go at each end. We have "Poke Yoked" (Fool proofed) these parts so it should not be possible to assemble them incorrectly. If a part doesn't fit 99% of the time its because its the wrong part you have in your hand!

One further point to note is that the laser cut parts have a "Dark" and "Light" side. If possible orientate the Darker side uppermost and to the outside of the kit where possible. This is less important if you are to paint the kit, but if you are going to leave it unpainted this makes the appearence of the finished kit much better. If you are unsure which side is which. Find a piece with etched lines on it. We call the etched side "Dark" and the unetched side "Light". You should now be able to tell the difference between the sides even on an unetched part.

We have found that the parts are a very accurate fit and need next to no glue to hold together. We recommend "Super Glue". Just a few drops here and there is sufficient to hold everything in place. 

As the original construction of this type of structure was wood, the model can be left unpainted, however details such as the seating and handrails could be enhanced. The choice is up to you. We encourage you to check out the gallery for inspiration Here.

To begin construction our first task is to get the central section glued together square and secure. Get out a seat support, the one piece back (The largest piece in the kit) and the larger central cross brace. This cross brace has 5 lugs and the words "Magnetic Racing" etched on one side. This goes down towards the floor when the model is orientated correctly. The pieces of this kit are quite delicate, so don't force the lugs together during assembly. If they are a bit tight, use a small needle file on the lugs or some sandpaper so they go in more easily. Note the orientation of the back piece relative to the seat support. Glue these together using the three pieces at the same time. This way it is easy to get them all perpendicular to each other. The upright shown has no etched line on it. If the part doesn't appear to fit, look for another one in the kit. If you are not painting the model, try to place the "Dark" side of the back section face down on the work surface.

Now add on another seat support as shown.

Now add on one of the shorter braces as show. The part is symmetrical so can go either way up. Dry assemble it first. If it doesn't seem to go in, lift the model off the workbench, there is slight flex in the one piece back which enables it to go in. Place the model back on the worksurface whilst drying to ensure the model doesn't dry twisted.

Add on another seat support and cross brace as before.

Proceed in the opposite direction adding the pieces as shown.

Now add on the first end support. Note that this has etched detail on one side. There is a left hand and a right hand one in the kit. Place the etched detail on the outer side as shown.

Rotate the model and add on the other end. Once more note the etched line is on the outside.

To further strengthen the structure add in the second uprights. You can recognize these as they have small lugs on one end and one square hole at the other. Again do a dry assembly first to see how they all fit and then glue them in place. There are 4 of these to add. This time the "Dark" side faces upwards as shown in the image below.

Now add on the front supports as shown. There are two to attach.

Turn the model around and stand it on its legs. The model should sit nicely without twist. Now glue on the stair supports. The pin locates in the hole of the back part, there is a notch that goes around the horizontal brace and the front should touch the build surface. Do a dry assembly first, then apply glue and pinch it against the seat support. Hold it whilst it dries which should take only a short time.

Add the second stair support in a similar manner.

We now add on the stair treads. These are on a sprue. Cut them from the sprue along the etched marks at either end of the tread. We have given you a few spare in the kit in case you make a mistake. Add the bottom tread first as this will help space the model correctly.

Add in the remaining stair treads. It is easier if you now start at the top as there is more room for your fingers as you work down, but any way will do.

Add on the single top piece, this has an etched line across the front to represent two separate planks. 

Add on the front decking. There are two to add. The etched detail is on top surface. The front edge hangs over slightly, so push the part back into the corner. Make sure the ends are flush with the main model. if your model was assembled slightly twisted (Which is ulkikely) place some small weights (Coins) on the front corners whilst drying as this should correct any small errors.

We then add on the seat decking. There are 4 to add. Note that there is a narrow board on these and it looks neater if these go to the front of the board. This way they are hidden by the seat back, which we will add on next.

Next comes the seats. The base and backs are identical, so choose any in the kit. Glue them on ensuring the ends are flush.

Next turn the model around and glue on the upper deck. Note this has an etched line on it and this goes on top. Push the part against the back of the upper seat and also ensure the ends are flush with the model sides.

Follow this by the rear upright piece. There are two round notches on this piece and these need to be positioned at the top. Once again the etched detail is on the outside and ensure the ends are flush with the sides of the main model.

The upper guard rail goes on next. The previous part had an etched line on it, use this to align the bottom edge of this part so it is attached at the correct height. Once more the ends of the part should be flush with the ends of the main model.

Turn the model around and glue on the small front pieces as shown. These have no etching on them. Push them up under the front of the lower decking to get them in the correct position.

We are nearing completion of the model.  Add on the end hand rail. There are opposite pairs of these in the kit. Make sure that the etched line goes on the outside. We align the part using the back hand rail, the lower edge of the model and the etched line on the side of the model.

 Add the hand rail the other end in a similar manner. Once more choose the part which has the etched line on the outside as shown. 

The last finishing touches are to add in the capping pieces on the ends and back. There are two pieces here that can be added together. You can recognise these as one piece has a sharp end and the other has a square end. There are left and right hand ones of these, so sort through the remaining pieces in the kit until you find the correct pair that has the nice "Dark" side outwards. The top part upper end is flush with the model, the lower part rear edge hangs over the model a little. Check out the next image to see how it assembles with the back edge piece.

Glue on the rear piece. Once more face the best side outermost. Align it with the previous piece . the lower edge also aligns with the inner of the main model. This way it is easy to get it horizontal.

In a similar manner to the other end, add on the final two pieces. Once again the good "Dark" side of the parts is best on the outside.

Congratulations, you have completed the model. The second stand is assembled in an identical manner to the first.

We would love to see some of your completed models on your track, so feel free to send us some photos for our gallery.