Information and How to assemble the Two Tier Pit Module #005d
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Two tier pit building is compatible with our other #005 pit modules. As
well as providing two pit bays on the lower floor, the upper tier has a
two row stand which is accessed by the stairs at the rear of the
building. It is recommended that this building is placed between two
others, but the end is etched with brick detail, so it is possible to
use this as a separate building with only minor modification.
The two tier 1/32 building is 210mm Wide x 138mm Deep x 212mm High
How to assemble the two tier pit module #005d
drying super glue for our models. Just a few drops on the joining
edges, press and hold them for a few seconds and the connection is
done. This way the model can be built in about 1/2 hour. Of course if
you are going to paint model, you can do this as you go along, however
the pit interior is easy to access should you want to paint it after
you have completed much of the kit. You can leave off the roof and
seating sub assembly which makes access to the inside easier, then
final assemble the whole thing. One word of warning. If you have bought
multiple kits, do not be tempted to open all the bags and tip
everything out. Some parts look very similar across the kits (between
centre, two tier and end modules) so unless you like a challenge resist
model is double skinned in most places, so we assemble the inner first
then add on the outer detail. We highly recommend that you read the
guide all the way through.
let us begin. Get
base, rear wall and the centre wall. The base has "Magnetic Racing" etched on the underside.
Place this part text down on the build surface. Note the rear wall has
brick decoration and this
unusually points to the inside as it is visible from the front when the
kit is completed. Also note down the centre of the rear wall there are
two guide lines to help you get the centre wall vertical. Do a dry
assembly first to check you have the parts correctly orientated, then
separate them and apply glue. By assembling all the 3 parts at once it
is easier to get all the parts perpendicular to each other, however if
you prefer, assemble the centre wall to the floor using a right angle
or another part from the kit to get it vertical, You can then
attach the rear wall.
glue on the middle floor, this is a plain piece with no etching. Three
lugs on the rear edge clip into the rear wall. Check at this stage
everything is square as this makes assembly of the later parts much
we glue on the pit front. Note there is surface detail on this part
above the front opening and this needs to face outwards. Again do a dry
assembly first to see where you need to apply glue and then assemble it
to the main model. Notice that the lugs on this part are long and
protrude through the face of the front wall. This is correct. Just
ensure the front face is pushed back and presses tightly against the
front upright and is fully engaged with the floor. Take care here not to push too hard on the end sections as these are fragile.
end pieces go on next. These are handed left and right, so make sure
the etched brick detail goes on the outside. Notice once more the lug
on the lower front edge protrudes slightly through the front wall. This
is correct. In addition whilst the glue is drying check the top corners
at the rear align with the rear wall to form a perfect corner. If you
are using a slow drying glue, a couple of lengths of tape at the top
can help keep them in place.
Your model should now look something like the image below. Place it aside and allow it to dry.
now turn our attention to the upper seating assembly. Take out the
seating base as shown and find a seat support (There are several in the
kit). Also find another part which has a square corner as you can use
this to glue the two parts at right angles.
we glue in a rear cross brace. Once more there are several in the kit
and any will do. Notice that the bottom lug is offset slightly and this
ensures it fits the correct way.
In a similar way add on another seat support and another cross brace and one final seat support until the model looks as shown.
now need to find a stair support and glue it in place. Do a dry
assembly first as you need to look where to apply glue on the seat
support. Push it firmly home in to the slot and press it against the
seat support until it dries.
on another stair support as shown. Use another part in the kit which
has a right angled corner as a guide so you can glue this perfectly
We now add on the first two steps. These need to be cut from the sprue with a sharp blade.. Glue the lower two steps first.
Add on the next two steps.
And then the last two. Push these together and use the upright edges to align them.
Next comes another seat support. Again do a dry assembly first to determine where to apply glue.
In a similar manner to the first end, continue to build the seat support and cross braces until you have the following assembly.
by adding on the seat decking. It is best if you place the narrow
etched plank to the front as it is then hidden by the seat back. Glue
these on ensuring the are pushed back in to the corners and the ends
add on the seat base. Note the bases and backs are the same, so choose
any in the kit. Glue it on enduring it is pushed into the corner.
Now add on a seat back.
Carry on adding a seat base and then a back until you have finished all the seats.
this assembly is dry it can be attached to the main model. Do a dry
assembly first. It needs to be pushed forwards as far as possible and
mounted centrally between the pit end walls. There is a small gap
either end, so when you are gluing it in, try to position it with
an even gap.
Now add on the rear outer wall. Use the door openings and edges of the part to help align it exactly.
lie the model flat on the build surface and glue on the first stair
support. Use the etched detail to position it exactly on the rear wall.
There are two identical supports in the kit, use either.
next piece to attach is the upper stair floor. Notice that this has an
offset notch. make sure you clue this in the correct way. Use another
square part in the kit to make sure the part is upright.
Follow this piece with the upright wall. Once again glue this vertical.
the model on the bench as shown and attach the first stair upright.
Both the uprights and stair treads are the same part, cut them off the
sprue first making sure the cut end is free from burrs. Once again use
a square edge to get this aligned correctly.
next part requires care. Glue on one of the lower stair uprights. We
need to ensure it is square in both directions. Take another square
part from the kit. Apply glue to the parts and place them together.
Hold the part and check it both ways to ensure it is perfectly upright.
The parts are quite accurate so it should be easy to do.
attach the second stair support. Align the part where shown. We also
need to make sure the sides are parallel. This can be done by eye. It
is possible even with super glue to adjust this before fully cured, so
it is a good idea to flip the model upright and check that both lower
ends sit on the build surface. You can also use a right angle to check
that it is square to the workbench.
With the model as shown above, glue on the other stair uprights. It is easier to start at the top and work down.
the stairs by adding on all the horizontal stair treads. Push these
down and into the wall. It is handy here to have a small modeling
knife or stick so you can push at the back corner near the wall to
ensure each is fully home.
off the stairs with the outer wall. The lower edge should align
perfectly with the stair support and form a neat square with the upper
stair wall. This completes the stairs.
Turn the model around and glue on the front lower slab.
Follow this by attaching the two top cappings.
Glue on the top lip as shown. Ensure the ends are flush with the main body.
next part is a little tricky and it helps to have an extra pair of
hands, but alternatively this can be achieved with some masking tape on
either ends of the part to hold the corners in place whilst the part
dries. . We now need to glue on the front upper piece. Ensure the
etched detail goes to the inside and the ends are flush.
the above part has fully cured and remove any tape you used to hold the
assembly together. We now need to insert the other roof supports. It is
important here to do a dry assembly as sometimes glue residue can be in
the base of the rear slots. Check it all goes together first and that
it pushed down fully into the slot. Remove the part, apply glue then
reassemble. The vertical etched lines enable the parts to be positioned
correctly. Once more a small strip of masking tape can be useful at the
front to make sure the parts are held together whilst the glue dries.
final part of the kit is the roof. Apply glue to the top parts and
press it home. The etched detail is on the outside and check that the
side and rear edges are flush with the vertical walls.
you have finished the two tier pit building. We designed the building
to go between our other pit modules, but it can be used as a stand
alone building and we added etched detail on the end so you can do
this. If you are going to use the building as an end module we do
recommend that you take the time to add a bit of filler to the small
gap in the end wall as shown before painting the kit.
hoped you enjoyed building the model and we would really like to see
some photos of your work so we can add them to our gallery.